Nov 18, 2014

Looking Back

We were driving west toward higher ground. Behind us were the marshes, the live oaks, the smell of  pluff mud, and white birds with long legs. The trees: red oaks, poplars, and sweet gums with colors of crimson and gold flash by.  Once off the federally mandated superhighway system originally designed for the rapid deployment of troops, we entered a small town. We stopped at McDonald's for a mocha and entered the town of Edgefield, known as the birthplace of ten South Carolina governors.  We passed through the town square with its Robert Mills designed courthouse and followed US highway 25 north, before turning west on US 378 and on to McCormick County. Here in South Carolina's youngest county we followed a dirt road through much national forest land to the land of my forefathers. The road was deeply rutted on the way to what remains of my grandfather's homestead.

"We'll have to walk from here.  The road is washed out too much, and I think the car would drag.  We don't need a hole in the oil pan here in the boondocks, " I announced.

"That's fine.  We need to get some exercise anyway.  We didn't make it to the gym today," she said.

The road leads down a slight grade, curves to the left,  and is flanked by a forest of pines and colorful hardwoods. We locked the car and began our walk. The quiet was almost eerie. You don't notice how much ambient sound there is in the city until you don't hear it. The call of a crow in the distance broke the silence. About a hundred yards down the road there was a steel cable barring entry to vehicles. "No Trespassing" signs are nailed to some of the trees.

"Can we go through?" asks Claudette.

"Sure we can.  This is our property.  The hunt club we lease it to put up these signs.  When Daddy was alive the managers of the property decided  that people were going to hunt on it without authorization, so we might as well lease it to them.  And so we did, and that provides enough income to pay the taxes and such," I said.

"Oh!"

"I'll hold up the cable so you can get under," I said.

"Then I'll return the favor," Claudette said.

After we were on the other side of the cable there was a clearing  on the left and a newer appearing road to the right.

"This little road goes to Long Cane Creek.  It was the border between the Cherokee Indians and the British in the  eighteenth century. You know cotton was the main crop in grandpa's day. He paid his rent in cotton. His landlord was his daddy, and the old Confederate veteran never gave any of his land to his children.  He rented it to them. That's why almost all of his land is intact today.  I think this little road made by the deer hunters will take us to the house Daddy grew up in," I said.

"But you haven't been here since the eighties..." she said.

I thought I detected a note of doubt in her voice. After about a few feet on the deer hunters' road I saw a structure amongst the shrubs and trees.  It was one  of the old barns, and it was partially collapsed.  The wood was weathered and the tin roof rusted. I remembered how Daddy had told me how the lower timbers on the walls that touched the ground were of red cedar, because cedar was less likely to rot on the wet ground. I had Claudette take a "you were there" photo and we continued to search for the old farm house.

"Look, there it is!" Claudette said.

Sure enough, through the trees I could see the old dilapidated farmhouse. Whenever I visit old homesites my imagination tends to take me back to the time when they were active.  Here I could imagine looking slightly uphill from the barn to the house. There would have been no shrubs around it but some tall trees shading the yard of hard red clay. This was where my father grew up.  We walked through the fallen leaves and undergrowth to the back of the house. I climbed over some brick to peer into the kitchen from where the chimney once was.

"What do you see?" Claudette asked. I was blocking her view.

"Not much, just an old rusted cookstove laying on its side," I answered her.

"Can you imagine how many meals she cooked for her husband and eleven children?"

I moved from the kitchen to the back of the house on my left.  Through the brush and blood thirsty briars I could see a collapsed porch from the addition which attached the main house to the kitchen. Like most houses of this era the kitchen was detached. Although, in event of fire, I don't believe a three-foot gap between buildings would have afforded much fire protection. About halfway down the back of the house was a door.  I fought my way through the briars with quarter inch barbs to get to this entrance to the house. Sunlight blazed into the interior from the door opposite. To the right of the entrance nearest me was a stairway to the loft. It had no bannister, and the steps were painted sky blue. I was about to step inside when I heard a voice behind me.

"You better not do that,"  she warned.

"Why?" I wanted to know.

"You might fall through the floor!"

"Oh...well, okay," I answered slowly. I thought she may have had a point. I may have been asking too much of this one hundred year old floor to support my two hundred plus pounds.  We continued to walk around to the front of the house, peering in windows and noting architectural details.  There were some old bed frames and debris, as well as a ladies white pump.  The house was last inhabited in the early 1940s.  The front of the house had a long porch with one end attached to a room extending out about eight feet. This extended room's wall had two windows, one above the other.  The upper allowed light into the attic space. At the far right of the porch was the main entryway. This door had small single panes on either side from ceiling to waist level. I think this would have been the fashion of houses built about 1900, although I believe this one was build a few years before the turn of that century. The were two doors on the front of the house. Claudette and I navigated of the rubble of the fallen porch to the door on the left, and I entered it.

"Hey, its pretty solid," I said as I inched my way around in the interior.

"Be careful!" she said.

Inside the room to my right was the fireplace and beside it a doorway to the adjoining room. Flanking the fireplace on the right was an empty wall, but on the left was the doorway and a stairway to the attic. I walked toward the stairway and into the next room. There was a closet under the stairs. Houses built when this one was built usually did not have closets. I returned to the room I had entered and called to Claudette.

"I'd really like to have a look in the attic.  What do you think?"

I did not get a response. Sunlight was streaming through the window at the end of the house. Sticking my head out I could see her.  She was digging in the earth a few yards away.

"Hey! Whatcha doing?" I queried.

"I've found this little holly tree.  I'm taking it home with me!" she said.  I guess you can take the a girl out of the garden, but you can't take the garden out of the girl.

"I was thinking about going upstairs, but I guess that's not a good idea," I mused.

"Not a good idea," she said and added, "You've probably spent enough time in there anyway."

I exited through the door I had entered earlier and joined her beside the house.  From there you could see how the kitchen was originally detached. Over the years an addition had been added to the house to extend it closer to the kitchen.  The final three feet appeared to be the last modification to


the structure. I took a photo.  I had taken quite a few photos of the interior and exterior of the house.
I pulled out a copy  of an old photo. It had been taken when my dad was a boy and included his entire family at this house. I wanted to determine the location of the picture. We speculated, but only decided where the picture was not taken. I had been working on a sketch of the house in my sketchbook while we were there as well as a floor plan, and I put the finishing touches on both.  I thought we were  ready to leave when Claudette announced, "I need to find a brick from here to put in my garden."  And so were sought the perfect brick from the rubble. She found it of course and also found in her purse a plastic shopping bag from Walmart to carry it in. Occasionally you can find an old brick with a handprint in it, but it was not to be on that day.

It had been an enjoyable day in the woods in and around the house where my father had been born and raised.  We were both delighted that the cool weather had acted as a deterrent to snakes and insects. From Daddy's home place we visited the site of the Long Cane Massacre, where in 1760 the Cherokee Indians killed twenty-three settlers during the Cherokee War.


BTW  My dad was the little guy in the front on the far right.





Nov 14, 2014

Musty Odors and Ancient Objects

"Lady, you need to get you son out of there!" the docent said to my mother. When I was a young boy
California Automotive Museum
(about five-years-old) my mom took me to the oldest museum in the United States, the Charleston Museum. Although only the classical Greek columns of the building remain today, I can still remember that musty smell of antiquity. I also remember being apprehended by museum personnel that day.  It seems I had managed to get inside some ancient piece of armor. Was this a detriment to my quest of old stuff? Not a bit!

Museums are of all kinds, and many specialize.  As an artist I find art museums extremely interesting. The Mona Lisa, Sunflowers, Guernica, or The Third of May.  Just to be so close to the genius of da Vinci, Van Gogh, Picasso or Goya is inspiring. The  photographs in art books don't do them justice.
The Tate Modern, London.
Reproductions of art somehow always miss something. Perhaps it's the dimensional aspect of the art. With oil paintings you can see the dimensional quality of brushstrokes better and just maybe smell the hint of oil in the air. There is something awe inspiring about seeing the actual works.

Aviation museums are no doubt my favorite.  There is something about these machines that break the bounds of gravity and join the realm of birds that have always fascinated me.  In our travels I
have seen many types of aircraft, some famous and some infamous. Of course the most common historic aircraft is the Wright Flyer, or rather a replica.  The original first American airplane to make controlled powered flight was destroyed. The Spirit of St. Louis, which first was flown solo across the Atlantic, and the huge NC4 flying boat of the U.S. Navy, which was the first to fly across the Atlantic, claim aviation fame. The Messerschmitt Me-262 was the first jet aircraft flown in combat and was a marvel of German technology.  The Glamorous Glynnis was the X-15 rocket plane which Chuck Yeager flew faster than the speed of sound. Actually, Gen. Yeager named all the planes he flew after his wife. The Enola Gay dropped the first atomic bomb, which ushered in the nuclear age, and the fastest airplane to ever fly was the SR-71, Blackbird. I've been fortunate enough to see these famous aircraft and many more.

The Chicago Museum of Science and Industry

To me, the British Museum is the creme de la creme of museums.  There you will find the Rosetta Stone. Discovered in 1801, this seventeen hundred pound piece of black granite has inscriptions in three languages.  These inscriptions in three languages allow linguists to translate the hieroglyphics of the ancient Egyptians. Also in this museum are many Egyptian mummies and the mummified remains of one of the first humans.  There are the ruins from Greek temples on display as well as Roman artifacts.  It was said that the sun never set on British soil.  During this period treasures of many civilizations were collected by the British Museum.
The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, Ankara, Turkey

Once upon a time I was an enlisted man in the U. S. Navy and therefore have an affinity for things naval other than oranges. I must say that the Spanish Naval Museum in Madrid is another favorite of mine, although I've been aboard a number of the American warships which are now museums. The Spanish National Naval Museum houses a map produced by the cartographer who sailed with Christopher Columbus to the Americas. A map shows some of the coastline of the new world. The museum follows Spanish naval history from early colonial days through World War One.  It was interesting to see a scale model of the battleship U.S.S. Maine, the ship whose sinking started the Spanish-American War and whose capstan is in White Point Gardens in Charleston, South Carolina. Another Spanish museum I favor is the museum at the Spanish Artillery School in Segovia. Spanish weaponry is traced from the crossbow and spear to the rifled and breech loading cannon. Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry, The British Museum of Science, and the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci in Milan are great science and technology museums as well. One of the most popular exhibits in Chicago is the German submarine captured during WWII. The Milan museum does a great job tracing technology from Leonardo da Vinci's machines to modern computers. The mammoth steam engines are unforgettable in the British Science museum.
The National WWII Museum, New Orleans, 

As a childhood fan of B-Western movies, I would be remiss not to mention my fondness for cowboys. The one museum that depicts cowboy life well is the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, Wyoming. There is a reason your ticket will allow you entrance for two days.  It's that big! And, to appease the artist in me, it has Frederic Remington's studio reproduced. Remington is one of my all-time favorite painters and sculptors. Throughout this country museums abound on almost any subject.  Whether it is a museum about teapots or Winchester rifles I'm sure everyone can find one that suits their fancy. That includes the Crawford W. Long Museum in Jefferson, GA, which commemorates the birthplace of anesthesia.

Perhaps one of the greatest advantages of visiting museums is the opportunity to learn. Sometimes just to see an object as opposed to reading about it or seeing pictures of it can offer a completely
The Heard Museum, Phoenix, AZ
different explanation to its operation.  Nowhere is this more evident than in  science and industry museums. They show how stuff works. And musical instruments, which are machines of a different nature, are better understood when held in your hand. The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, AZ, is great for this.  How do you play a gong anyway?

I will continue to immerse myself in the next museum I find, but I don't think I can get my torso into a piece of Greek armor anymore.



The Spanish Naval Museum, Madrid

Nov 3, 2014

Well, If I gotta!


Dear Tony,

You know what happened to me?  Darlene got me to go on this river cruise in Europe. One of the places we stopped at was in Austria. She said we were going to some kind of special event on shore. You know she made me take off  my NRA cap and I had to put on a button-up shirt over my Jimmie Johnson t-shirt!

"I don't know why I have to do this," I complained as we boarded the bus at the pier.

"Because this is Vienna and Vienna is famous for classical music," She reminded me.

"Maybe on our next trip?"

"Nope, today! We're seeing The Vienna Residence Orchestra!" I was detecting a threat in her voice.

We boarded the big fifty foot Mercedes-Benz bus and were soon on our way through the rain drenched streets of Vienna. It is a beautiful city but did look better freshly washed. Soon we were getting off the bus at the Auersperg Palace.

There was two  stairways leading up from the foyer. Columns of marble abound with banisters of carved stone.  I believe that all of Europe sits on one huge rock that is constantly mined for building material.  Most everywhere you go from Ireland to the Med has stone buildings.We opted for the elevator on the left of the stairs. (There was a bunch of stairs!)  After we got out of  the elevator we entered a large room. You could have put a dozen city busses in there or more. It was big! There was a small stage and about two hundred chairs in front of it.      The room had very high ceiling with big curtains of shiny cloth. There was fancy wallpaper and, of course, more marble columns.  I hadn't never seen nothin' like it before. We all set down. The chairs were really close together. It was very cozy. Then the band came out onto the stage. Darlene said it was an orchestra.  She had taken me to see an orchestra before at the Sottile Theatre and it had about a hundred people in it. Don't guess you get but about ten people for sixty-five euros.  That's sixty-five each. I had complained to Darlene about the price but she said we had to hear some classical music in Vienna. 

Everybody got real quiet and they started playing. It looked like them fiddle players was trying to cut them fiddles up with them bows the way they was a sawing on 'em. A fellow told me one time 'bout how the fiddle makes that sound.  It seems that the bow has hair from a horses tail on it and they put tree sap on that hair. That hair with the sap on it kinda sticks to the strangs as the fiddler moves the bow.  And that is how the sound is made. Oh, yeah, one other thing.  If the fiddle don't play bluegrass or country music it's called a violin, I reckon.  They had violins, little bass fiddles some horns and a drum in the orchestra (band). There was a big piano too beside the stage with a lady in a long dress playing it. I whispered to Darlene, " When they gonna play the theme from the Long Ranger?  They say that's classical music."

"That's from the opera William Tell by Rossini.  This concert is the music of Mozart and Strauss," she said as she shushed me.  

I don't like to be shushed. 

The orchestra continued to play.  After a while some dancers come out onto the little stage. They was ballet dancers.  I have never been fond of men and women dancing around on their does although them girls do have some nice lookin' legs. I would not be caught dead wearing tights like them men wore. I mean what if you got hit by a car crossing the street. That would be worse than havin' on dirty underwear. They gotta be in pretty good shape like jocks.  They do jump really high.  After they danced a while the band, orchestra, took a break.  We all got up and stretched  and they gave us either champagne or orange juice. Champagne always tickles my nose. At least it was not as strong as that stuff they called schnapps  we had at the horse show.  It was real fire-water! We set back down again and the band, orchestra, played some more.  I recognized the second song they played. It was from the Stanley Kubrik movie, 2001, A Space Odyssey.  I was excited.  I had recognized a song. I whispered my discovery to Darlene. But she said it was written by somebody named Strauss. After a while, some men and women come out and sung. There was two of each. I don't know what they were saying in the songs. It was in German or something. Darlene said it was opera. There were some people in front of us kinda giggling as the large lady was singing.

And then the concert was over.  I guess it's true what they say, " It ain't over 'til the fat lady sangs!"

Claudette enjoyed the concert and I got another dose of culture. By the way, she said she thought the people were giggling because they thought the big lady singer might experience some kind of "wardrobe malfunction".

We got back to the ship in time for supper. I ain't seen any of them vienna sausages 'round here,

Latter, buddy,

Bubba