Dec 23, 2013

Florence, not of the Pee Dee.

Outside Hotel Lorena, Florence.
Of all the cities in Italy, I prefer Florence. I'm not exactly sure of the reason. However, I can relate our recent visit there. It was after dark when we made our way from the train station along unfamiliar streets to our hotel. We had been on trains most of the day. We had left Venice in the early morning and got off in Rimini to visit the mountain-top country of San Marino. From Rimini we traveled to Bologna and changed trains to get to Florence. In the evening there were hundreds of vendors set up on a piazza enroute to our hotel. Each vendor occupied about a ten square foot area with a mobile structure and display racks of merchandise. This included leather goods, textiles, ceramics, and various bric-a-brac, much of it intended for the tourist. Several vendors were helpful in directing us to the street we needed to find.

Hotel Lorena, like many in Europe, was on the second floor with the ground level, or first floor, occupied by shops and restaurants. Incidentally, the second floor is referred to as the first floor, while the ground floor has no number designation. There was an elevator, but we did not find it initially. Soon we had unpacked.  Our room overlooked the street, Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, and the Medici Chapel. After a quick chat with the desk clerk we ventured into the street to find some food and explore a bit. We were surprised that the vendors were packing up and moving their mobile shops  from the piazza. Soon the piazza was filled with people walking about enjoying the warm Italian evening. We got a quick bite of food and found a gelato shop near by. There was not much exploring because we were tired and wanted to turn in early.  Back in our hotel the closed shutters and windows muffled the street noise and music of the wandering accordion player allowing for a good nights sleep. The shared bath was always empty.

Breakfast at the hotel was the usual continental style, with cappuccino of course. Claudette and I were the only non-Asians in the breakfast area except for the server. I believe they were Chinese. I'm not very adept at determining the nationalities of Asians, but I'm getting better. One of the attractions we wanted to see in the city was Michelangelo's David. The sculptor was only twenty-
In the Medici palace.
six years old when he carved the seventeen foot tall statue of the Biblical hero from Carrara marble. Michelangelo (1465-1574) considered himself a resident of Florence and the ruling family, the Medici, were his patrons. There was a long line at the entrance to the Accademia Gallery, but it moved quickly.  No photos were allowed. As you enter the main salon David is at the end in its place of honor. It is impressive. On either side of the gallery leading up to the Michelangelo masterpiece are the "Prisoners". These are statues or figures in their rough incomplete stage.  Michelangelo is reported to have said that the image was inherent in the stone and that he simply released it.  The "Prisoners" illustrate this, as they seem to emerge from the stone. Housed in the same gallery is also a collection of musical instruments and other works of art.

After leaving the Accademia Gallery we found the Medici Palace on Via del Pucci. It is now called Palazzo Medici Riccardi, because the Riccardi family once owned it. We wandered the halls of the Medici Palace.  Yes, it was posh; not exactly Versailles, but then... there is only one Versailles. Fortunately, there were very few tourists. There were great rooms with many tapestries, and the customary vaulted ceilings were highly decorated. I particularly liked the Luca Giordano Hall. In addition to a beautifully painted vaulted ceiling, the mirrored walls were painted as well.  The Medici practically invented the banking industry. As great patrons of the arts they left their mark on the city of Florence.
The Doors of Paradise.
You could see your reflection between cherubs and such. The effect was awesome.  This was the home of Lorenzo the Magnificent; yes, the same one depicted in the television series, da Vinci's Demons.

After leaving the palace and grabbing a bite to eat we explored the Medici Chapel.  This attraction, like many, has metal detectors and handbag and backpack searches upon entry. Built in the style of the Italian Renaissance, it is the final resting place of the members of the powerful Medici family. I found it unique that the tombs were not below ground but on the second floor. And such tombs they were. Here again we saw the work of one of Florence's famous sons, Michelangelo.  Two of the tombs feature the sculptor's rendering of the four times of day: twilight, dawn, night and day. On the lower level there were some display screens like you would find in a gallery with some table-like supports in front. I pulled out my Samsung Galaxy SIII to take a picture when behind me I heard, "No photos!". I apologised to the uniformed female security guard and stuffed the phone back into my pocket. From across the gallery I heard Claudette say in a stage whisper, "Hey, look at this!" I walked quickly to her side in front of one of the table-like display platforms.

"What is it?" I asked.

"This is really weird,"

I looked at the display of what appeared to be gold trophies or perhaps some kind of golden urn. There were three of them, each less than two feet tall. They were lavishly decorated with figures of humans and animals. Small portraits adorned some.

"Pretty neat," I said.

"But, look at that," she said, pointing to what appeared to be a small window about two or three inches in diameter at the base of the object.

I looked closely and inside the window appeared to be a human finger. This was a preserved finger of one of the Medicis, long since deceased. Kind of morbid, really.

Baptistry in the foreground, Duomo in the rear.
After this we exited the chapel and ventured to Piazza di San Giovanni where the Florence Baptistry is located. This octagonal building was constructed in the late eleventh century and is most famous for its huge bronze relief doors. The east doors were dubbed "the doors of paradise" by Michelangelo. All the well known Florentines of the renaissance were baptised in the baptistry, including the famous Italian poet, Dante.

We continued our walk toward the Arno River. Along the way we pass Palazzo Vecchio with its copy of Michelangelo's David and the nearby Loggia dei Lanzi, the outdoor sculpture gallery. As we rounded the corner there was a mime entertaining a crowd and farther on some "living  sculptures". As you walk through the courtyard of the Uffizi Gallery both sides of the courtyard have statues of famous Florentines in alcoves. Along with popes and Medicis, there is Niccolo Machiavelli, Galileo,  da Vinci, Dante, and others. The statue of da Vinci reminds me of his application to become the city engineer of Florence.  In the last line of the application he stated, "...and I can paint as well as Michelangelo.".
Courtyard of the Uffizi.

At the river we crossed the Ponte Vecchio bridge.  Like most medieval bridges it has shops on either side.  Once it was the domaine of tanneries and leather workers. They would dump the wastes from the tanneries into the river.  Today it is lined with shops catering to what every tourist would want.  On the other side of the river we stopped at a pastry shop for a brioche and cappuccino.  As we returned to our hotel on Via Faenza we stopped by our favorite gelato shop before turning in for the night.
The river Arno.

It had been a great day in Florence. Tomorrow, Siena.

The title refers to the South Carolina city by the same name.

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