Up the River from the Gulf.

Beignets at Cafe du Monde

First it belonged to the American Indians, then the Spanish, then the French, and then it was the site of the most famous party in the United States of America. And the answer is...New Orleans, LA.  Rather than recount the history of the city I will relate a recent visit.

Like most places I visit I have an idea what I wan to see, and New Orleans was no different. On my list was:

1. eat a beignet
2. ride a streetcar
3. stroll around Jackson Square
4. walk down Bourbon Street
5. hear some good music
6. drink a Jax or Dixie beer

It is two days after Mardi Gras, and the clean-up is in progress, but beads are still hanging from all the trees. We started our look about the "Big Easy" at the Jax Brewery.  From this building once flowed that wonderful golden brew that flooded the delta in pre-Katrina days. Now the huge  building is no longer a brewery but serves as a shopping mall. I personally don't think that's an improvement. This building is beside the Mississippi River and across the rail and streetcar tracks for the berth of the Natchez. This steamboat was launched in the '70's, but its steam engines were build in 1926.  The engines turn a 21 ton white oak paddle wheel to move the ship up the Mississippi.  It is one of the six steam powered boats plying the river today. She clangs her bell, blows her whistle, and plays her calliope as she churns the waters of the mighty Mississippi.

Saint Louis Cathedral

It is common knowledge that the best beignets are found at Cafe du Monde. However, it may not be common knowledge that you will have to wait in line to sample these delicacies.  We waited.  I am not a "waiting in line" type of person, but I did it anyway. There are several hundred people eating the pastries at small round tables  at his open-air restaurant. The Vietnamese staff quickly bring our pastries and cafe au laits.  There are a few caveats about beignets.  You never wear any thing black, because the small pieces of fried pastry are covered with powdered sugar. Also, never inhale while taking a bite, because you will inhale powdered sugar. Never having eaten a beignet, I was surprised at the texture.  I expected a crisp crunchy crust, but it was soft but very coarse. I delighted in the four I ate, and the coffee was excellent, also. I drank the chicory coffee while in New Orleans as homage to my great-grandfather, who wore the gray in the American Civil War.  Chicory coffee was created during those times, because the South could not obtain coffee beans.

We continue our walk down Decatur Street to the French Market. In typical fashion there are many souvenirs for sale and many types of food to eat.  The vendors here like others in the city speak that musical form of English found only on the Gulf coast. Available food runs the gamut  from roasted corn to gator tail. The meat of this reptile always seems have a coarse texture and is chewy.  Items very colorful here, but for things indigenous to the delta it is like most markets.  At the end of the market is the old U.S. Mint. This mint is truly unique in that it was used by two countries: the United States of America and the Confederate States of America.  Neither my friend from Mobile nor I could ever remember seeing a coin with a New Orleans mint mark.  We continue on back down Decator past the statue of Joan d'Arc, Jackson Square, and the dozens of horse drawn buggies awaiting tourists.  The art on the fence for sale by local artists was bright and colorful.  Realistic landscapes were sorely lacking. We watched as a break dancer performed for tips, and one of those "statues" exhibited himself as a silver plated jazz trumpeter.

We stopped at a restaurant across the street from Jax Brewery which had once been the old slave market.  The food was good.  I had a muffaletta, a hearty meat sandwich  on round bread with an olive dressing, and French onion soup. Brasha was not allowed inside, being a female of the canine variety.  After the meal she did tricks for Aimee with table scraps for a treat.

After our meal we wandered around Jackson Square looking at more art on the fence, listening to a jazz band, and looking at the statue of the general who later became president.  I can hardly look at the statue without remembering that famous Johnny Horton song:

"In 1814 we took a little trip, along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip"

And who can forget Arlo Guthrie's "City of New Orleans."  As a small boy I remember the Southern Crescent speeding over the rails. There was a bridal photo shoot going on and a man and woman  doing some kind of gymnastics.  We ducked in Saint Louis Cathedral for a quiet retreat. Named for Louis IX of France, there have been worshipers here since 1727.  There are beautiful painted vaulted ceilings  and an illuminated bible to see. This is the oldest cathedral in continuous use in the country.

A street band

There were still a number of things on my list, so we continued on.  We found the best music from street musicians on Royal Street.  Although the music was different from each band the performers all looked similar. They appeared to be unwashed (but I could detect no body aroma!) and had piercings and/or tattoos.  I think the look was "grunge" kicked up a notch. There was a variety of instruments from electric violins to washtub basses. The most interesting thing I saw was a suitcase (Samsonite, of  course) used for a bass drum!  Betwixt and between the musicians were magicians and other performers.  A tall black man in white tie and tails was demanding that a stuffed toy dog on a leash not move. And, of course, more "statues'.  I heard a story about a man who took a well dressed manikin, set it on a park bench with a tip bucket, and periodically collected his profits.

On to Bourbon Street.  I was surprised at how wide the streets are in New Orleans.  Unlike many colonial cities in this country it doesn't have the narrow streets, and Bourbon is no different.  If a street could have a hangover, it had one.  There are the glitz of the neon lights and the bouncers with that linebacker look.  But, most of all, there is the sound of a slide guitar coming from inside the night clubs at a decibel level that moves the flags on Jackson Square three blocks away. And, there are the revelers that don't realize that Mardi Gras is over, as they stagger along the street attempting to refrain from spilling their beer from clear plastic liter-sized cups.  New Orleans infamy is of two kinds: it's a dirty city and also has a legendary corrupt police department.  But... maybe that just adds to the charm.

The day was waning, and it was tim to return to our hotel. We had one last drink together at Jax Brewery Bistro.  Yes, I had a Dixie Beer.  We said our goodbyes to our friends from Mobile and to those who live in the Cresent City before catching the streetcar beside the restaurant.

Not all the streetcars are red.

We hopped on a bright red streetcar and then realized that it was going away from our destination of Canal Street. The operator said we would go to the end of the line and reverse our direction on the same track.  After a few stops the car stops, and the operator gets off and says, "Everybody off!" We get off and wait in the drizzling rain for what seems like a long time before she comes back and says "Y'all didn't have to wait in the rain; you could get back in the car."  I had thought we would go to a roundtable for the car to be turned around, but that didn't happen. The operator simply walked to the opposite end of the car, adjusted her seat, and started the car in the other direction. There were operator controls at either end of the car.  We changed cars at Canal Street for a ride to St. Charles Street. There was about a one block walk in the rain to catch the St. Charles streetcar. Streetcar stops aren't marked very well, just a small yellow sign roughly four inches wide and sixteen inches tall. Upon reaching our stop we go to Mia's for dinner. I have the shrimp and grits, and Claudette has the portabello pizza.  The shrimp and grits are great.  The shrimp are cooked to perfection, unlike ninety-five percent of those that are overcooked.

We enjoyed our trip to New Orleans and will visit again. We will hope for sunshine.