Sunday Night on Avenue des Champs-Élysées

aris, FrancOnce I was talking to a local Belgium-born artist and asked him what was his favorite city.  I knew he was a world traveler and no-doubt had a favorite city. He smiled, his eyes sparkled and a smile erupted on his bearded face. 

"Paris," he said.  

I wondered why.  I'd read about the famous people past and present who had called the French city home but wanted to see for myself.

It was our last day in Paris; in the morning we would take the train to Verrnon. In the morning we had visited the Louuvre and  Orsay Museums and had a bit of lunch.  Both museums were crowded but enjoyable just the same. We did , of course, see the Mona Lisa, Da Vinci's painting of world renown. We decided to take a leisurely stroll along the river in an easterly direction from Notre Dame. I looked for Duncan McLeod's barge but did not see it.  It was always tied up opposite Notre Dame in the television series, The Highlander.  The church in the middle of the Seine River is quite impressive, but crowds of tourists seem to overwhelm the spiritual ambiance of the place. 

In the Tuileries Garden we male a brief visit to Musee de l'Orangerie (Orangerie Museum)  showcasing the work of the  artist, Henri Manet.  His paintings of the water lilies in his garden are huge, with one of them covering an entire wall.  Other painters of his era are represented as well. While there we saw an old man dressed  like a painter of that era with flowing beard and floppy hat.  We then continued our walk in the garden and sat for a while on a park bench watching a family play a game of boule.  This game is played throughout Europe but known by different names. Basically a player tries to throw a heavy ball, boule, about softball size at a smaller target ball or "cochonnet".  Points are scored by the player getting closest to the target ball.  It's a team sport and the first team getting to 13 points is the winner.   It was enjoyable to watch a family having so much fun on a Sunday afternoon. I was surprised in our walk not to see any painters with their easels; they were always in the movies.  I did see some cheap reproductions for sale on one of the bridges. It would have been nice to have pulled my beret low over my eyes and dipped a brush into some French ultramarine blue oil and put it on canvas.  Maybe next time.

We continued our walk to Place de la Concorde which is the city's largest square.  The gardens and the square were created by Louis XIV, and later he lost his head there as well as Marie Antionette. Avenue des Champs-Elysees begins here. There was an oriental couple in western wedding garb here talking with well-wishers beside a stretch limousine surrounded by other cars and pedicabs.  We continued our walk along the busy avenue and stopped at a park bench to people watch for a while.  We considered buying some ice cream but thought it was too expensive, one Euro per boule.  They sell it by the "boule" instead of  by the scoop  .  All sorts of vehicles were on the avenue: exotic sports cars, limousines, motorcycles, and the ubiquitous motorscooters.  I actually saw a man doing a wheelie on a scooter.  Some of the French women were dressed to the nines.  The epitome of feminine eye candy!  We walked from the shady tree lined area to where the shops and restaurants were and found a delightful place to eat. It had just opened for dinner. Great food in an incomparable atmosphere. Food isn't cheap in Paris.  Remember everything has that 19% value added tax. And there is no required tipping. I've heard many stories about the rudeness of French waiters.  We found them to be quite professional. You must remember that dining in France is a leisurely experience.

After finishing our dinner, (I had that famous peasant dish, cassoulet, a rich stew of various meats and white beans), we continued walking toward the Arc de Triomphe and saw the shops of all the world famous clothing designers and jewelers and watchmakers. The street was full of a festive crowd and all the streetlamps were now on. There were automobile dealer showrooms and we looked around the Peugeot showroom since we were going to rent a Peugeot when we reached Rouen.  It was amusing to see a salesman apprehending an over zealous shopper asking him to get  out of a car on display.  I did not understand the language but understood the intent. After all I had once been an automobile salesman.

By now it is twilight and the neon is reflecting off the sidewalk as the huge monument to Napoleon's victories looms ahead.  Twelve streets merge at the Arc de Triomphe and are named for army generals.

We join the crowd to enter the 164 foot tall monument. We were unaware that this particular Saturday was "free" day.  On certain days during the year national attractions such as this have the admission charge waived.  This was such a day, and I think every Frenchman between Paris and Nice was there.  But how many times would we get a chance to go tho the top of such a world renowned attraction? So, you stand in line. It wasn't so bad, and we took the elevator, which isn't very obvious.  After the final few steps the panoramic view of Paris, the city of light, awaits us.  There are few lights on top and I was moving toward the rail in semi-darkness when I accidentally bumped into a couple at my feet who were too much  into each other to notice me.  But the young woman looked over his shoulder and gave me a knowing look as I apologized and passed by.  The view is fantastic!  The sun is setting, the city sparkles with lights, and the lighted traffic streams to and from us and circles around our feet. People speak with "u-u-uhs" and "a-a-ahs" in several different languages as the sun descends below the horizon.

We make our descent through the gift shop after reaching ground level. We stop a few minutes to take a photo of the grave of the unknown soldier from WWI. The monument reads:

ICI REPOSE UN SOLDAT FRANÇAIS MORT POUR LA PATRIE 1914–1918 ("Here lies a French soldier who died for the fatherland 1914–1918").

There is an "eternal" flame marking the grave.  It's said that Jacqueline Kennedy got the idea for such a flame for her husband's grave here when she and Jack Kennedy visited this place with then French president Charles de Gaulle.

 

We catch the metro back to our hotel at 110 Rue des Orteaux.  Our hotel is in the part of Paris made famous by the singer Edith Piaf who  grew up singing for tips on the streets. It was a fairly long ride but made interesting by a Frenchman who had obviously had too much wine.  He kept trying to get someone to sing with him but was unsuccessful.

It was a great day, one we will long remember.  I think the painter was right.  I can't say exactly what it is about Paris, but it's my favorite city, too.

Links:

• Some of my photographs of Paris
• The Arc de Triomphe
• Notre Dame de Paris
• More about Boule.