Peter's Yard

Peterhof, translated from the Dutch, means Peter's court. The translation may seem rural and homey, but Peterhof is hardly that.  It is the palace of Peter the Great near St. Petersburg. We arrived there at about ten in the morning with our tour group. We were met by a military band. Militaristic music filled the cool morning air; a real wake-up call!  Soon we were ushered into the palace itself. Security was tight at the palace like at other tourist attractions we had visited in Russia. There is, however, no consistency in security regulations. Some places backpacks were allowed and in some not. Some places photos were allowed and some places not. Peterhof was no exception.

Built in the grand European style, it is actually a collection of several palaces.  Peter the Great, the builder of this palace, was a fan of European style architecture, in particular French Architecture.  The exterior of the palace was yellow, unlike the blue of Catherine's Palace  and the Hermitage. The chapel on the palace grounds has the traditional onion shaped domes gilded with gold. This palace like others had the beautiful wood parquet floors. What  makes Peterhof so unique, however, is its gardens. In 1730 the gardens of palatial homes were as much for entertainment as decoration.  The fountains of the gardens of Peterhof make it quite unique. Today the fountains are  the main attraction of this World Heritage Site. The gardens in the area between the main palace and the Gulf of Finland contain the majority of the estate's fountains. These are no ordinary fountains; these fountains have no pumps. The water pressure comes from gravity. Water is collected in ponds from natural springs behind the palace. The difference in elevation between the ponds and the fountains produces the water pressure to operate the fountains.  The Samson and the Lion fountain shoots a stream of water sixty feet in the air, the highest of any fountain.  This fountain, installed in 1730, has a special historical significance. On St. Samson’s Day Russia defeated Sweden in battle. The lion is on the Swedish coat of arms. Therefore, the statue of Samson killing the lion incorporated in the fountain is symbolic. The original gold clad statue scavenged by the occupying Germans during WWII has been replaced.

The fountains are operated only a few hours a day. This is quite an event.  The fountains are turned on with much fanfare at eleven o'clock.  It begins as a military band assembles in front of the Samson and the Lion fountain.  The band members stand at attention before the golden clad statue, and with a blast of trumpets water gushes skyward. As the music swells the fountains are activated and jets of water shoot into the air. This fountain is the beginning of the Sea Channel which is lined with fountains as it leads to the sea. The fountains along the sea channel begin as well.  The streams of water rotate and vary in height as the band plays. Peterhof is loosely based on Chateau de Marly of France.

These water works were once considered “the eighth wonder of the world”.  We thoroughly enjoyed visiting Peterhof.  If you’re ever in St. Petersburg, take the short drive to Peterhof to view some of the greatest fountains in the world and a beautiful palace too.

The Red Square

Moscow is the biggest city in Russia. The largest country in the world is quite sparsely populated but you wouldn't think that in Moscow traffic.  I don't believe there is a speed limit in Moscow as the natives drive around at breakneck speed in their Mercedes Benzes, BMWs, and other foreign cars. It seems the Russians can ferry people to the space station and back but can't build a dependable automobile. Our guide told us that only the less affluent people in outlying areas drive Russian cars.  The city police in Moscow drive Fords.  We saw a Lamborghini on a side street. Eighty-two per cent of that country's billionaires live in the capital city. They do have a great subway system to move Russians about the city of some twelve million people.  In many ways Moscow is like any other big city complete with oddly dressed teenagers who have the requisite cell phones stuck to their ears. And, of course, there are queues at McDonalds and Starbucks. We did not get the opportunity to visit McDonalds.  Why would you visit McDonalds in Moscow you may ask. Because Mickey Dees is an international chain and in each country it has some dishes indigenous to that country.  Kind of like you expect gumbo in New Orleans or livermush sandwiches in Gastonia, NC.   In Spain they had these delicious little croquettes at McDonalds.  Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to sample  the local delights of the McDonalds in Moscow.

The first attraction we visited in  Moscow was Red Square.  My first view of the world famous real estate prompted two questions.  Why was it not as large as it appeared on television?  During the cold war, when we would see the Soviet troops parading with their war machines, Red Square seemed to be huge. I reality it appeared much smaller than what I expected. Propaganda maybe? It isn't red so why is it called Red Square.  Initially the name probably comes from the Red Army of the revolution of 1918.  (They also had a white army,but it lost.) Or because meaning for the word  meaning  "Beautiful" in the old Russian language became the color red in modern Russian. I think the old Russian definition still is applicable. Therefore, Beautiful Square?  It was a beautiful day when we visited. Saint Basil's Cathedral was just like in the post cards. The multi colored onion domes are truly unique. When you're looking at the 16th century cathedral the tomb of Lenin is on your right.   It was not open for viewing when we were there.  But we did not desire to see the mummified body

of this instigator of the Russian Revolution. Opposite the tomb of Lenin on this square whose origin is credited to Ivan the Great was the GUM (pronounced, "Goom") department store which occupies almost a complete side of Red Square. GUM actually represents the Russian words meaning "state department store". This store could be considered a monument to capitalism. Inside are all the great names of modern fashion; Versace, Burberry, and Moschino. But there is also a place to get ice cream. The store was rather crowded.  We window shopped a bit and were able to find a cafe table outside overlooking the square. It was a great place to people watch.  There was one annoyance though. Vendors hawking tours for tourists through blaring loudspeakers.  We were taken aback by a Vladimir Putin look-a-like  that suddenly appeared from around a corner. Natasha, our guide, whom we had rejoined said, "No! No! That's not him!" We did not think that he was the real thing, although the American press depicts him as sort of a villain we did not think he would resort to frightening tourists. The Russians, or at least the ones who voiced their opinions, like Putin. He has brought back some prosperity after the debacle of attempted democracy and a rising feeling of nationalism. The Russians will tell you, "Who needs democracy when you're hungry?"

Near the Square is  Russia's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier but we missed the changing of the ceremonial guard.  Those Russian soldiers do some high stepping.

Soon we were back aboard ship, somewhat tired, and ready for a leisurely dinner.

The Burial of R. McKinney

It was a hot August day when my mama called to me as I was finishing up an oil change on my old Toyota. “Son,” she said, “get ready to go. Gene just called and said that Rascal was bad sick and she wants to take him to the doctor!”

Aunt Gene was my mama’s sister, and she was a widow woman whose life revolved around a Boston Terrier. Boy, did she dote on that dog, treated him just like a child.  She and Uncle Alvin never had no children.  Yep, that Rascal was the apple of her eye. I mean, when she sat down to eat she fixed the dog a plate just like hers, right down to desert. Sometimes I believe that dog ate better than I did.

When I heard Mama's call, I wiped the engine oil off my hands and cranked up the Toyota.  She was in the  passenger’s seat by the time the engine came to life. “You better hurry,” she  said, “you know how upset Gene can get!”

The little town of Bradley was disappearing in my rearview mirror as we gained speed. I drove frantically down the country road across Hard Labor Creek  and the branch called Cunning Ford. Mama held her handbag in her lap with white-knuckled hands. We made the usual 20 minute trip in about half the time. Aunt Gene was waiting for us by the road. She had the little Boston Terrier wrapped up in a blanket and her handbag hung on her arm.  She was carrying that dog the way a mother would carry her baby. She climbed in the car with tears streaming down her face and we lit out.

‘Bout halfway to town I heard a whimper from the back seat. "I believe he's gone," she said,  her voice cracking.

"Maybe not," I said, trying to reassure her. "We'll be at the vet's in a few minutes."

Upon arrival she carried the little dog into the doctor's office and, sure enough, he was pronounced DOA.

But that's not the end of the story.

"We have to get a casket!" she said, as she got back into the car. She still had the dead dog wrapped up in the blanket.

"What?" I said.

"Go by Walker's, they were good at Daddy's funeral."

I found myself driving to Walker's Funeral Home, one of the two in town. At the rear  were quite a few parking places, and I parked there. Mama had not said a word, but I could imagine what she was thinking. She had a dim view of Aunt Gene's relationship with her dog. “Get him a nice one,” she said, as she  pushed a roll of bills into my hand as I got out of the car. I entered the backdoor of the mortuary and found myself in a room of thick carpeting, dark wood paneling, and soft music. Almost like an apparition Jackson Walker appeared. We had been classmates in high school. Even then, Jackson had the manner of an undertaker; the sympathetic smile, the soft modulated voice, and radiating an eerie countenance.

"My, my! Is that you Tony Young? I haven't seen you since we put your grandpa away," he said.

"I've been kinda busy," I said, which was sort of the truth. I really do not move in undertaker circles. They kinda give me the heebie jeebies.

"So what can  I do you for?" he asked.

"I need as casket for a dog," I blurted out.

"Oh, okay, let me see what I can find," he said in his undertaker's voice.  "I may have something in the attic. Most people use an infant's casket. And what was the name of the deceased?"

"Rascal, and he was a Boston Terrier," I answered.

"That's a small dog, right? I don't care much for dogs myself. My oldest brother, the one in the Marine Corps; he had a dog. And you know what? It bit me! Never cared much for dogs after that.  I believe Rascal will look good in that little white casket I've got upstairs."

"Could you hurry it up a bit?  Mama and Aunt Gene are waiting for me out in the car with a dead dog, and the air conditioning’s busted on the Toyota."

"I'll be right back," he said, as he scurried up the stairway with his hand on the polished rail to steady his considerable bulk.

He returned quickly with a small white coffin on his shoulder. "That'll be $140," he said.

I peeled seven twenties off the roll Aunt Gene had given me and handed them to him.  He

gave me the casket.

"You give Mrs. Young and Mrs. McKinney my deepest sympathies, you hear," he said as I was almost out of earshot.

I took the casket out to the car, and we put little Rascal in it. By this time he had swollen up a bit and was stiff as a board. I must say he probably looked better than he ever did with his head on that little white lace pillow. It wasn’t easy, but I managed to get the casket into the trunk of the car. There was a piece of rope in the trunk I used to tie the trunk lid down. I would not hazard a guess as to what passersby might have thought they saw.

The drive back to Aunt Gene's house was uneventful. She was sitting in the back seat sobbing. Mama would look at me every now and again and roll her eyes. Seeing an eighty year old woman roll her eyes was kinda funny, but I could only smile because my aunt was broken hearted in the back seat.

Once home Aunt Gene picked a place near the muscadine vine beside the house for Rascal’s final resting place. I placed the small white casket on the ground and  went to find some digging tools.  It was about 2:30 or 3 in the afternoon and I’m sure the temperature was nearing triple digits. My Lynard Skynard tee shirt was wringing wet, and my Levis and BVDs would be next.  I scrounged up a mattock and a shovel and began to work. I pulled a bandanna from my pocket and wiped the sweat from my eyes.  As I looked to the sky, what did I see but rock birds.  When I was younger I had worked some with my Uncle Alvin digging water wells. Every time we would see those buzzards in the sky he would call them rock birds.  And sure enough we would almost always hit rock while digging. I sure hoped I wouldn’t hit rock digging this grave. But I’m sure that rock would not have been much harder than the red clay I was digging. It had not rained in two months.  In August, with no rain and the hot sun, even your tomatoes would get blisters. I sneaked around the house and brought two five gallon buckets of water to try to soften the clay.  I would’ve carried more but was afraid I would take too much water from a well that seemed to be going dry. Lot of folks’ wells went dry in the hot summer with little rain.

About two hours later I finished the job. I grabbed a bunch of bitter weeds with their bright yellow flowers and put them on the grave. I was tired, and about the only thing dry on my body was the tops of my socks. Thank goodness, she didn't want a tombstone!

Amber was not just for Dinosaur DNA

We boarded the bus on  a fairly cool Friday morning  to tour one of Russia's most famous palaces. Naturally it was from the years in which the czars ruled the country, but this palace was not named for one of the czars but rather for the wife of a czar. The palace is known as Catherine's Palace and is often thought to be the palace of Catherine the Great. Not true. Catherine the First was the wife of Peter the Great, and it is her name that is lent to the palace.

Catherine I was quite an interesting person.  Her time and place of birth is not known; only that it was not in Russia. She was a servant girl when she caught the eye of Peter the Great. There are very few "rags to riches" stories that can top this one; from servant girl to Empress of Russia.  

The palace itself follows the grand European style of palaces and was completed in 1756. The exterior is blue with gilded stucco. More than 220 pounds of gold were used in decorating the exterior and various statuary. That would be worth $3.6 million today.  It is rumored that even the roof is covered in gold. As we walked through the rooms of the palace which are open to visitors, we commented on the features it had in common with the abodes of other monarchs of the era. Ceilings were high and decorative. Windows were huge, primarily floor to ceiling in height. There was extensive use of mirrors, and there were huge paintings, some ten by twenty feet in height and width. There was a total lack of tapestries, which we had seen in most european palaces. Huge ceramic stoves were in many rooms. 

 The grandest feature of this palace is the Amber Room. Amber is fossilized tree resin. You may recall that in Michael Crichton's novel, Jurassic Park,  the dinosaur DNA was found in amber. Amber has been coveted for centuries as a semi-precious gemstone. In Catherine's Palace the world famous Amber Room has the walls covered

with thin layers  of amber. The beauty of the amber is enhanced by gold leaf and reflecting mirrors. The room literally glows. No photographs are allowed in the amber room. The room was first assembled in a palace in Prussia and then given to Peter the Great, Catherine's husband, as a gift to seal an alliance against the Swedes. Ordinary words cannot adequately  describe it. Like most palaces of the 18th century, Catherine's Place has beautiful gardens as well.  These are formal gardens beautifully designed and maintained.  There are blooming plants and statues galore.  There are small structures, garden houses to allow guests a bit of privacy for perhaps a tet-a-tet or rendezvous. As we wandered the gardens our guide, Natasha, filled our ears with facts about the palace. Our grandiose surroundings had been enjoyed by the eighteenth century Russian aristocracy, and the lady who built all that we saw began life as a servant!

Cosmonautica?

On our recent trip to Russia there was one place that interested me probably more than any other: The Museum of Cosmonautics. I'm sort of at techie at heart.  My wife, Claudette, can attest to this having visited many aircraft, railroad, automobile and naval museums with me.   What better to summarize Russian technology than a museum dedicated to space exploration? It was a "must see" for me in Moscow. The museum is located at 111 Prospekt Mira, VDNKh, and it was easy to find once you learned how to read the Russian metro maps. Like most subway maps the lines are numbered, named, and color coded. Moscow subways are world renowned for their uniqueness. Nearly seven million people a day ride the Moscow subway.  There are two ring lines with a male voice announcing on the clockwise train while the opposite is announced by a female voice.  875 direct current volts move the trains along the tracks at what seems to be extremely fast rate. Published rate of speed is only 25.9 miles per hour. I tend to believe that is an exercise in creative writing. The subway was opened in 1935 and has highly decorative Art Deco waiting platforms with arched ceilings decorated to celebrate the Russian worker. At the end of one of the platforms was a huge hammer and sickle. We queried our guide about it, but she said that was from the old Russia. Russian guides tend not to talk much of the communist ruled Russia or the days of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. The columns are connected by archways, many of which have decorative statues. The statues are painted black, but there is a statue of a dog whose nose is shiny bare metal. Thousands of Russians each day rub his nose for good luck.  Claudette and I did too. You can never have too much good luck.

We had to change trains twice to get to our destination.  If you turned left when you exited the train, you were at the museum, but you may not know it.  A man pointed toward a giant monument when I finally got him to understand what we were looking for. This was the Monument to the Conquerors of Space.  It was very impressive.  There is a titanium rocket atop its trail three hundred fifty feet in the air. The base was over fifty feet long and had steps all around. We could see no entrance. I sat on a bench while claudette reconnoitered. While  I sat a few Hare Krishnas came by chanting and beating a drum. The were followed by what appeared to be Russian college students. I guess some things are the same all over. When Claudette returned we decided we would go back to the street and venture further away from the train station.  Sure enough, in less than a block we found the entrance to the museum. We had not turned left when exiting the train.

The Museum of Cosmonautics is sub-terranean beneath the Conquerors of Space monument.We paid an  entrance fee  of 200 rubles, or $2.95.  They wanted an extra 200 for the right to take pictures, and even more if you wanted to shoot video. I thought this was ridiculous.  Instead, I did drawings. Fortunately, I had my Moleskine sketchbook with me. Don't get me wrong, I love to draw, but it An Astronaut's Guide to Life on Earth, all spacemen, whether astronauts or cosmonauts, must perform a specific act to insure a safe flight. When the vehicle which transports them to the spacecraft stops midway, they must get off the bus and urinate on the back tires to ensure good luck. This fact may or may not be listed on a caption in the museum.  My Russian is very poor.  

slows you down when visiting a large museum.   The museum is fascinating and had recently undergone a renovation. It traces Russian space exploration from its humble beginnings to the present day.  I remember when the Russians launched the first artificial satellite. It was called Sputnik.  It was only about the size of a volleyball with some antennae sticking out. People would go outside and look into the night sky and claim they saw it. In cartoons it always made a "beep-beep" sound. The U.S. was caught dreaming about space while the Russians were going there. As a result, American education systems placed renewed emphasis on science and mathematics. Soon the Americans caught up with the Russians and probably surpassed them in space exploration. Yuri Gagarin was the first man to orbit the earth, and his space capsule is on display.  Once he had entered the earth's atmosphere and was at a fairly low altitude he ejected from his capsule and parachuted to earth. The Russians, unlike Americans, always recovered their cosmonauts and their craft on land rather than sea. Gagarin, now deceased, started a pre-launch tradition the is still observed today. According to Chris Hadfield's book,

There are many space capsules and models of spacecraft to be seen. A model of a space shuttle very similar to ours as well as robotic moon rovers which were placed on the moon in 1971 were on display.  The moon rover was actual size.  All displays are extremely well executed. One diorama shows cosmonauts having landed in mountainous terrain during winter. It is a full size rendering of the event. Very realistic. There were two stuffed dogs representing the dogs that flew into space atop huge solid fueled rockets early in the space race. They looked like Jack Russell terriers. It was very interesting to walk through a mock-up of a section of the Mir space station.  It was a reminder of the space station at the Museum of Space and Aeronautics in Washington, D.C. My biggest criticism of the museum is the lack of English captions on displays. Unfortunately, I could not use the translator in my phone because it involves using the camera and I stupidly did not pay the extra 200 rubles for camera use. Also, there were very few direction signs in the multilevel facility.

Did I like it? You better believe it! Would I like to visit the Museum of Cosmonautics again?^ Absolutely!