Inside The Emperor's Palace

We were constantly surprised by our finds on the Dalmatian Coast of the Adriatic Sea. An Emperor’s palace was  certainly a surprise. I asked Claudette whose palace would be in Croatia. She drew a blank, as did I.  As the big tour bus rolled into Split, we were about to find out. The bus stopped about one hundred feet from the waterfront for us to disembark. “I wonder where this palace is?” I mused.

Claudette overheard me talking to myself and responded, “ Me too. We’ve seen palaces all over Europe. Usually, you can see a palace from afar before you actually get to it.  Except,...maybe...the Medici  palace in Florence.  It kind of blended with the buildings on the street.”

“Yep, maybe so,” I said.

We entered the palace through a rather nondescript door. This was  the retirement palace for the Roman emperor Diocletian built in the early fourth century A.D. Actually, palace is somewhat a misnomer for the seven and one

half acre complex of buildings within the walls.  Only about half was used as the emperor’s residence. The total number of residents within the walls would have been about nine thousand and many of these were garrison soldiers.  The palace contains over two hundred buildings. We adjusted quickly to the coolness and the lack of the bright Adriatic sun. The tour group appeared to be in the middle of a gift shop.  I thought immediately of the movie Exit Through the Gift Shop.  Our guide urged us to follow her. Soon we were in the center of a vast empty hall with a barrel vaulted ceiling underground.  It was interesting to note that the huge blocks of limestone used in construction were not of a consistent shape.  This allowed the stone to be fitted together much like a puzzle.  The builders had taken in consideration the frequency of earthquakes and this structure had survived many. The lower level would have allowed access to the sea for escape should it become necessary. We continued to follow our guide through the underground chambers. As I daydreamed about what life would have been like in the fourth century the voice of the guide in my ear brought me back to reality. I nudged Claudette and asked, “Did I hear what I think I heard?”

“If you think you heard that Tito had college students digging through what was left of a fourth century toilet, you are right,” she said.

“H-m-m, maybe archaeology students?” I said.  Marshal Tito was the benevolent dictator of Yugoslavia, and Croatia was a part of Yugoslavia when he was in power. We continued underground a bit more before emerging into the bright sunlight.  Our group appeared to be on a city street with buildings all around. As we followed our guide through a large arch we were in for a musical treat.  The music is called klapa. It is the traditional a cappella singing of the Croatian coast. The voices of seven men blended harmoniously in Croatian folk songs. It was quite a treat.  I bought their compact disk. I had bought a fado cd in Portugal. Our guide urged us onward. Soon we were in an urban square or plaza surrounded with columned buildings with arches galore. “This is the Peristyle,” said the guide, “and that building is the entrance to the emperor’s living quarters.” She indicated the cathedral of St. Domnius, originally the mausoleum of Diocletian, which dominated the square. Three temples to various Roman gods are on the Peristyle. One statue of a sphinx, one of the original four imported from Egypt, remains. Soon we were in a less than grandiose area of the palace. Over the years squatters have taken up residence in the palace. Claiming to be descendants of the original inhabitants, the authorities have been unable to dislodge them, although it is a World Heritage Site. They do not maintain their residences up to expectations.

Our tour guide led us back to the waterfront, and we continued on our own.

Claudette and I enjoyed a cappuccino by the sea.  I enjoy watching watercraft come and go.  We had only been there fifteen minutes or so when sidewalk activity seemed to increase. Between our table at the outdoor cafe and street front buildings  a crowd was gathering. There was a news media van and a lot of men in suits and ties. According to our waiter, Barbie was coming. Who was Barbie? Barbie is the affectionate nickname of the president of Croatia, Kolinda Grabar-Kitarovic. The tall blond is the first woman president of Croatia. Many pictures of the statuesque woman appeared on the internet in a very brief bikini, but they were all proved to be another blond. Our tour guide told us that the prime minister wields the true power in the Croatian government. The Prime Minister did appear for a few minutes. We were not privy to the reason for his visit to this city of one hundred eighty thousand.

We had a snack of miniature pizzas on the way back to the tour bus. At the small restaurant on a plaza, I enjoyed watching a small boy play peek-a-boo with his mother around the statue of some hero of a bygone era. Once on the bus we would continue our trip along the Dalmatian Coast, which is slightly reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast of Italy.

Pula

Our destination for the day was Pula, Croatia. Pula was another city on the Dalmatian Coast of the former Yugoslavia. The coastal area had once been conquered and subsequently ruled by the Romans, Venetians, Habsburgs, Italians, and perhaps others. The last ruler of renown was the dictator Marshal Tito. Tito ruled Yugoslavia until his death, after which Yugoslavia broke up into Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia, Kosovo, Montenegro and Serbia. Perhaps Pula’s greatest claim to fame is its Roman arena.

We arrived in Pula after following a route along the beautiful Adriatic Sea, We climbed off the big tour bus with a bit of anticipation.  I said  “a bit” because we had seen the Colosseum in Rome, which is the Roman arena of Roman arenas. But, our tour guide insisted that this would be different.  The arenas we had seen in France and Turkey had been impressive. We would have to wait and see what made Pula’s special.

Our local tour guide met us at the bus.  She was a delightful lady who spoke impeccable English. We walked from the waterfront uphill to toward the majestic Roman structure.  There was a public park between the sea and the arena filled with growing blooming things.  As we walked through the limestone entrance the guide announced, “This is an arena, not a colosseum.  There is only one Colosseum and it is in Rome.” I made a mental note.

I have always been fascinated by the feats of the Roman engineers. This arena gave me the opportunity to learn even more about their accomplishments, an arena still standing after over two thousand years. This arena is remarkable. Our guide pointed out some of the construction details. There are seventy-two arches and four gates.  The huge stones are connected with iron pins. The pins, which are less than a foot long, are sheathed in lead to prevent the iron for rusting. According to our guide the Pula arena is the best preserved of the over 200 arenas known to exist and one of the six largest.  She told how the arena had been restored to its former glory to be used in modern times. Elton John, Sting, Seal, Alanis Morissette, and many others  performed for crowds of over 23,000 there.  Claudette was delighted to know that Tom Jones had once performed there, although at one time a hundred years ago locals had grazed their cattle in the arena. There are notches in the upper rim of the walls to facilitate the installation of wooden spars that would support a sailcloth awning. The center was not covered. There was an arena of that design in Ridley Scott's film, “Gladiator”. We dutifully followed our tour guide underground like so many goslings following the mother goose.  Underground was a display of pottery and other artifacts. One of the most interesting was a reproduction of a first century Roman map. The original map

was twenty-two feet long!  On the Roman map distances between towns were indicated in Roman numerals but the actual topography of the roads was not shown. All roads were indicated by straight lines. I think it was a map for people who knew where they were. While underground we saw the various passageways leading to access up to the arena for animals and gladiators. The last to fight in the arenas were convicted criminals and animals in the seventh century.

As we left the arena I commented to our guide that the stairways were all different.  The space between steps as well as the height of each step varied. The guide complimented me on my observation and said the designers used stair design to control the speed at which crowds moved around the structure.

We strolled about the city a bit longer with our guide pointing out various landmarks, many of them Roman but some from the Venetian and Habsburg eras.  Mussolini had a lot of influence on architecture when he was in power in Italy.

Before getting on the bus we went to use the public restroom. A public restroom does not mean a free restroom on Croatia. We did not have any kunos in coin. So we had to overpay. Comfort does have a price!

Pizza in Croatia

It was a brilliant day in the Adriatic seaport of Dubrovnik, Croatia. The sky was cloudless and warm breezes kissed the rocky Dalmatian coast. We had arrived in the late afternoon by way of New York, Zurich, Belgrade and Tivat. After a good nights rest we were ready to see Dubrovnik's Old Town.

Our guide spoke English extremely well. All of the group were Americans except for one couple from Eastern Europe.  They spoke English as a second language.  We were there in the off-season and there were quite a few people out and about. There were enough people to create a queue at the gelato shop. In July and August the crowds are quadrupled. Since the advent of the filming of The Game of Thrones in the area, the city has had to build five youth hostels for the crowds of young people visiting the city. Hotels in Dubrovnik are predominantly four or five star. 

We entered the walled city of some one thousand years of age through Pile Gate. The walls and structures are of cut limestone blocks. The wall at some places is twenty feet thick. The city is encircled by the wall of some two and one half miles. We would have the opportunity to "walk the wall" once we reached the top, but first we would discover what ground level had to offer. One thing that was

immediately apparent to me was the Italian architecture.  Dubrovnik was once ruled by the Venice.  As soon as we walked through the gate we were on a small plaza, with a unique fountain in the corner. The domed structure was about twenty feet tall  with a waist high trough around it.  Water gushed into the trough from the mouths of sixteen ugly ornamental faces. It was designed by Onofrio della Cava, the architect and engineer who also designed the aqueduct which brings water to the city. He designed two fountains appropriately named Big Onofrio's Fountain and Little Onofrio's Fountain. Opposite the fountain is the Church of St. Savior, a church built in the late Renaissance style. 

We continued walking leisurely down Placa, the main street, toward the clock tower visible at the end. I turned down the volume on my earpiece, through which the tourguide speaks, in order to hear Claudette's comments. 

"We'll have to get a gelato at that shop befor we catch the bus back to the hotel," she said.

"I remember that gelato shop right outside our hotel in Florence.  I think we tried every flavor," I said.

"But you wouldn't try licorice," my wife responded.

"There is something about black ice cream I don't like," I retorted.

" The building on the left is Sponza Palace.  It now houses our national archives.  You will notice both the Gothic and Renaissance styles of architecture.  It was built between 1516 and 1522," said the tourguide.

Like all buildings it was built of limestone. I've never understood why limestone is so durable. On occasion I have been able to scratch a groove in the stone with my fingernail.  It seems that a stone that soft would not be durable, but history proves me wrong. At the end of the street is one of the city's two belltowers.  This one was built in 1444 and is one hundred and two feet tall.  It was rebuilt in 1929 when the foundation had been damaged by an earthquake. Also on this plaza is the church of St. Blaise, the patron saint of the city.  It was built by a Venetian architect in 1715 on the foundation of a Romanesque church. 

We then began climbing up and up toward the top of the walls. The walls are thirteen to twenty feet thick and eighty feet high. For

me it would take some effort. Along the way we would stop to overlook the harbor and the mountains of the coastal side of the

city. The seventy four acre wooded island in the bay is visible from the wall. It is said the Richard the Lion-hearted, King of England, was cast ashore there after being shipwrecked in 1192. By the time we reached the top of the wall our group had been overrun by Chinese tourists. 

The guide led us to the fast route back to the main street. Soon we were in the gelato shop.  I had a cookie dough flavor and Claudette had adifferent flavor; I don't recall what i was.  I don't know why I chose the cookie dough. I don't even like American cookie dough ice cream! We watched a television commercial being filmed while were there. 

"Maybe we can check the out the souvenir shops before we get some lunch?" Claudette asked.

"Why not?' I responded.

There were souvenir shops close by which we stepped in to buy a few items. (Gotta have the T-shirt!)

Close by was a lady with a number of beautiful tropical birds. There were parrots and macaws. She would allow tourists to have the birds sit on their shoulders, arms and/or heads. Usually a dutiful traveling companion would snap a photo and drop some money in the tip box. Naturally, an old man who always featured himself as a pirate of sorts had to have his picture taken with a parrot on his shoulder.  Claudette, being the good wife that she is, complied with my wishes. 

I got my shirt and she got some jewelry.  We left the walled city through Pile Gate and found a restaurant close by. We ate outside almost in the shadow of the walls.  The vegetarian pizza was awesome. It was perfectly complimented by the local brew.  

We throughly enjoyed our our day in Dubrovnik's Old Town. BTW Old Town is featured on the Croatian 50 kuno note.

HATE!

She was the object of my concentrated hate. I didn't like her. From the beginning she got special privileges.  Like when she rode home with my mother in that big long white car. I think people called it an ambulance. My mother did not play with me as much as she once did. Now she gave much of her attention to the little baby girl. I did not like her. And then there were the visitors. Once they wanted to see me as soon as they arrived. But now they hardly noticed. They would “u-u-h”and “a-a-h” and say “What a pretty baby!”  I did not think she was pretty at all: bald head, toothless smile, stubby arms and legs. Not pretty at all!  One Sunday there were some grownups at the house to see “the baby”. I was in the backyard trying to entertain myself. After all no one was paying me any attention. I was going to build a toy locomotive. They were big and powerful with steam and smoke. I loved them! I had found a small block of wood and a small red wooden ball with a hole in it. With my hammer I was nailing the red ball to the block of wood. (The red ball was to be the smokestack on my locomotive.) My construction adventure was interrupted by my father who said I had to be punished for using a hammer on Sunday.  The family was staunch Southern Baptists. We took that long walk to that area behind the woodshed where I bared my posterior to my father’s belt. It was a bad Sunday but the punishment that day paled in comparison to what was to come.

My dislike for my baby sister continued to increase exponentially. One day my mother allowed me to push the carriage with my baby sister in it. I was quite casual in my undertaking this task. At one point my mother relaxed her supervision and watchful eye. Clever lad that I was I took that opportunity to dump the baby from the carriage onto the ground. My mother screamed and quickly retrieved the undamaged baby. My father heard the scream and quickly apprehended his escaping four-year-old son.  The escapee was me. Once again we took that long walk to the woodshed.

Eventually I realized that I was stuck with a sister and we would become friends.

A Trip to Split

We fledgling travelers boarded the big bus in  Dubrovnik, Croatia, while the sun still bathed the Adriatic in the warm first light of day.  We would following the Dalmatian coast of Croatia to the city of Split.  The air was cool with the hint of rain along with the the smell of diesel exhaust. We were a happy lot. Thirty two tourists in search of adventure. Our tour guide,Vlaho, bearded with ponytail, counted heads. We were all present. The behemoth people mover moved out on the highway and we were on our way. A trip to Split. Split is the largest city in Croatia.

Soon we were following the winding road along the beautiful very blue Adriatic Sea.  There were not many watercraft visible. Many islands were visible though. Croatia has over one thousand islands although only a few are inhabited. The most common thing seen in the sea were the floats observed in rows as part of oyster farming. This form of aquaculture is extremely common in Croatia. Members of our group who had consumed this delicacy of the sea said they were very good. There were literally hundreds of these floats visible arranged in neat rows.

We made two border crossings. Bosnia owns a bit of the Adriatic coastline. The Croatians have been planning to build a bridge that would eliminate these  border crossings but it hasn’t materialized yet. Crossing the border was rather uneventful. But we were asked to keep our passports at the ready. According to our guide, crossings could sometimes be a hassle. I was curious because our

previous experience crossing borders of countries that were members of the European Union were totally uneventful. Passports weren’t even checked. Actually no one even asked if you had a passport! I asked Vlaho about the change. “It is due to the current refugee crisis, security had been increased” he said.

The bus followed the winding road to a higher altitude away from the coast into a thickly wooded area.  Our guide popped a cd of local music into the cd player in the console of the bus. It was beautiful acapella renditions of Croatian folk songs.  Little did we know that we would hear this music live in Split.  After the bus had weaved through the mountains for about an hour, Vlaho announced that it was time for a rest break.

The big bus stopped at an overlook of the valley below, the big tires crunching the limestone gravel. We filed off the bus. I commented to Claudette, “I’d stretch a mile if I didn’t have to walk back”.

“You always say that,” she said.

The overlook was splendid.  Below were three lakes probably 100 acres each in size. At the far distant lake was a small village.  Limestone outcroppings dotted the hillside. Claudette discovered an abandoned house with our binoculars. Between the craggy rocks grew yellow wildflowers. The sky was cloudless and the sun warm and the air smelled of growing things.

“Vlaho’s pop-up bar is open!”  our tour guide announced. We answered the call to refreshment. Like moths to a flame we were drawn. As we gathered around in the abandoned fruit stand, Vlaho announced, “ I got this from a friend of mine last night. He says it is very good.” He is holding a wine bottle with a red liquid in it. The bottle has no label. Vlaho explains that the liquid in the bottle is homemade wine that has had sugar added and then aged for three months. He began rapidly filling small plastic cups with the interesting liquid. And we, the tourists, began rapidly emptying them. On some occasions he had brought grappa. Although, technically, only the Italians can produce grappa. The Croatians apparently are not aware of this and continue to produce this particular type of beverage at home. I believe some of it exceeds the normal sixty per cent alcohol content. According to Mr. Google grappa is sometimes used as cold medicine. It Is true firewater!

Soon all the little plastic cups were empty. All the tourists were back on the bus. I did not know whether burst into song of fall asleep. I did not sing as we continued on a trip to Split.