Oct 12, 2015

Peter's Yard

Peterhof, translated from the Dutch, means Peter's court. The translation may seem rural and homey, but Peterhof is hardly that.  It is the palace of Peter the Great near St. Petersburg. We arrived there at about ten in the morning with our tour group. We were met by a military band. Militaristic music filled the cool morning air; a real wake-up call!  Soon we were ushered into the palace itself. Security was tight at the palace like at other tourist attractions we had visited in Russia. There is, however, no consistency in security regulations. Some places backpacks were allowed and in some not. Some places photos were allowed and some places not. Peterhof was no exception.


Built in the grand European style, it is actually a collection of several palaces.  Peter the Great, the builder of this palace, was a fan of European style architecture, in particular French Architecture.  The exterior of the palace was yellow, unlike the blue of Catherine's Palace  and the Hermitage. The chapel on the palace grounds has the traditional onion shaped domes gilded with gold. This palace like others had the beautiful wood parquet floors. What  makes Peterhof so unique, however, is its gardens. In 1730 the gardens of palatial homes were as much for entertainment as decoration.  The fountains of the gardens of Peterhof make it quite unique. Today the fountains are  the main attraction of this World Heritage Site. The gardens in the area between the main palace and the Gulf of Finland contain the majority of the estate's fountains. These are no ordinary fountains; these fountains have no pumps. The water pressure comes from gravity. Water is collected in ponds from natural springs behind the palace. The difference in elevation between the ponds and the fountains produces the water pressure to operate the fountains.  The Samson and the Lion fountain shoots a stream of water sixty feet in the air, the highest of any fountain.  This fountain, installed in 1730, has a special historical significance. On St. Samson’s Day Russia defeated Sweden in battle. The lion is on the Swedish coat of arms. Therefore, the statue of Samson killing the lion incorporated in the fountain is symbolic. The original gold clad statue scavenged by the occupying Germans during WWII has been replaced.


The fountains are operated only a few hours a day. This is quite an event.  The fountains are turned on with much fanfare at eleven o'clock.  It begins as a military band assembles in front of the Samson and the Lion fountain.  The band members stand at attention before the golden clad statue, and with a blast of trumpets water gushes skyward. As the music swells the fountains are activated and jets of water shoot into the air. This fountain is the beginning of the Sea Channel which is lined with fountains as it leads to the sea. The fountains along the sea channel begin as well.  The streams of water rotate and vary in height as the band plays. Peterhof is loosely based on Chateau de Marly of France.


These water works were once considered “the eighth wonder of the world”.  We thoroughly enjoyed visiting Peterhof.  If you’re ever in St. Petersburg, take the short drive to Peterhof to view some of the greatest fountains in the world and a beautiful palace too.

Oct 5, 2015

The Red Square

Moscow is the biggest city in Russia. The largest country in the world is quite sparsely populated but you wouldn't think that in Moscow traffic.  I don't believe there is a speed limit in Moscow as the natives drive around at breakneck speed in their Mercedes Benzes, BMWs, and other foreign cars. It seems the Russians can ferry people to the space station and back but can't build a dependable automobile. Our guide told us that only the less affluent people in outlying areas drive Russian cars.  The city police in Moscow drive Fords.  We saw a Lamborghini on a side street. Eighty-two per cent of that country's billionaires live in the capital city. They do have a great subway system to move Russians about the city of some twelve million people.  In many ways Moscow is like any other big city complete with oddly dressed teenagers who have the requisite cell phones stuck to their ears. And, of course, there are queues at McDonalds and Starbucks. We did not get the opportunity to visit McDonalds.  Why would you visit McDonalds in Moscow you may ask. Because Mickey Dees is an international chain and in each country it has some dishes indigenous to that country.  Kind of like you expect gumbo in New Orleans or livermush sandwiches in Gastonia, NC.   In Spain they had these delicious little croquettes at McDonalds.  Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to sample  the local delights of the McDonalds in Moscow.

The first attraction we visited in  Moscow was Red Square.  My first view of the world famous real estate prompted two questions.  Why was it not as large as it appeared on television?  During the cold war, when we would see the Soviet troops parading with their war machines, Red Square seemed to be huge. I reality it appeared much smaller than what I expected. Propaganda maybe? It isn't red so why is it called Red Square.  Initially the name probably comes from the Red Army of the revolution of 1918.  (They also had a white army,but it lost.) Or because meaning for the word  meaning  "Beautiful" in the old Russian language became the color red in modern Russian. I think the old Russian definition still is applicable. Therefore, Beautiful Square?  It was a beautiful day when we visited. Saint Basil's Cathedral was just like in the post cards. The multi colored onion domes are truly unique. When you're looking at the 16th century cathedral the tomb of Lenin is on your right.   It was not open for viewing when we were there.  But we did not desire to see the mummified body
of this instigator of the Russian Revolution. Opposite the tomb of Lenin on this square whose origin is credited to Ivan the Great was the GUM (pronounced, "Goom") department store which occupies almost a complete side of Red Square. GUM actually represents the Russian words meaning "state department store". This store could be considered a monument to capitalism. Inside are all the great names of modern fashion; Versace, Burberry, and Moschino. But there is also a place to get ice cream. The store was rather crowded.  We window shopped a bit and were able to find a cafe table outside overlooking the square. It was a great place to people watch.  There was one annoyance though. Vendors hawking tours for tourists through blaring loudspeakers.  We were taken aback by a Vladimir Putin look-a-like  that suddenly appeared from around a corner. Natasha, our guide, whom we had rejoined said, "No! No! That's not him!" We did not think that he was the real thing, although the American press depicts him as sort of a villain we did not think he would resort to frightening tourists. The Russians, or at least the ones who voiced their opinions, like Putin. He has brought back some prosperity after the debacle of attempted democracy and a rising feeling of nationalism. The Russians will tell you, "Who needs democracy when you're hungry?"

Near the Square is  Russia's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier but we missed the changing of the ceremonial guard.  Those Russian soldiers do some high stepping.

Soon we were back aboard ship, somewhat tired, and ready for a leisurely dinner.