May 27, 2014

A Garden by the Sea.

There is a place on the coast of South Carolina where naked huntresses chase legendary beasts in a subtropical garden. Such a place is Brookgreen Gardens. In the early twentieth century Archer Huntington, the stepson of railroad magnate Collis Huntington, bought 9,100 acres which was comprised of four former rice plantations near Murrells Inlet, SC. Here, Huntington and his young wife, sculptress Anna Hyatt, built a home on the lush Carolina coast. Anna realized that former plantations, one of which was named Brookgreen, would be the perfect place for a sculpture garden. The garden opened in 1932 and includes 551 acres. Also included in the 551 acres is the Atalaya Castle which is a part of the South Carolina State parks.

We arrived at about two o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful sunny day. You can't miss the entrance marked by a life-size aluminum horse sculptures named "Fighting Stallions". This piece was done by Anna Hyatt Huntington. She was one of the first sculptors to cast in aluminum.  It was a nice colorful drive to the ticket and information offices.  We saw a wild turkey in the way. Upon arrival we bought our tickets and a lady gave us maps and oriented us. We joined a tour group at a circular pool which had a statue of Diana the huntress on a pedestal in the center. The pool reflects the sculpture by the famous American sculptor, Augustas Saint-Gaudens. Saint-Gaudens also designed some of the United States most beautiful coins. I chatted with two artists doing some plein air painting.  Claudette was looking at the blooming lily pads in the pool.

"Hey," she says, "I see a turtle!"

"What?" I answer

"It's very small like those we had as pets when we were kids," she said.

"Is there a blue one?" I asked.

"No, silly man.  They're the natural green color," she said.
Anna Hyatt Huntington

Sure enough there was a small turtle swimming around and among the lily pads. The turtle's shell was about the size of a fifty-cent piece. Most of the people peering at the turtle remembered fifty-cent coins. As we watched the turtle a white haired lady stood up from her seat on a park bench under a Spanish moss laden tree and announced, "If you're here for the tour, I'm your tour guide."

Claudette had that "It's about time" look on her face. We began our tour of the garden.  One of the most important things our guide told us was how to orient ourselves. Certain sculptures could be used as landmarks to find your way.  As we walked the grounds as our guide told us of the history of the garden.  Apparently the best way for a sculptress to get a garden in which to display her craft was to marry a wealthy man. It certainly worked for Anna Hyatt Huntington.

Claudette asked me, " Didn't we see the "Blue Boy" in the Huntington Library in California? I wonder if that Huntington was related to this one?"

"Yes we did see Gainsborough's famous painting there and a Gutenberg Bible.  That library was built by Henry Huntington, Archer's cousin," I answered.

"Archer?" She queried.

"Anna Hyatt Huntington's husband," said I.

Our group continued to walk beside reflecting pools with sculpture about.  Of course most of the sculpture was figurative. And almost all the figures were either nude or with minimal drapery.
There are over 350 different sculptors represented in Brookgreen Gardens. "Pegasus"  by Laura Gardin Fraser was very impressive.  The huge winged horse and rider were silhouetted against the blue sky. We ventured on and were almost blinded by the afternoon sun reflecting off a gold statue. "Dionysus" by Edward McCartan was displayed in an open area.  The gardens are plush with flowering plants and shrubs. Bubbling fountains add to the serenity. It is easy to imagine being there alone and how much more enjoyable it would be with only the sound of moving water and singing birds. Our guide gave a good explanation of the logic behind the design and execution of the  "Fountain of the Muses" by   Carl Milles.  This work of art incorporated the moving water in the presentation of the sculpture.

Do you know why so many of the figures are nude?" Claudette asked.

"I've got a feeling you're going to tell me," I said.

"Long ago when sculptors began sculpting people, they believed that the human form was the most perfect creation.  It should not be adorned by man-made clothing," she answered in an authoritative voice.

"H-m-m, I probably enjoy the nudes for another reason which I won't disclose..." I said.

"You would!" I think I detected a bit of disgust in her voice.

One of the more interesting pieces is near the gift shop. The fully clothed male figure wearing a hat "reads" a newspaper while sitting on a park bench. "Len Ganeway" was created by Derek Wemher. Incidentally, the newspaper was sans print.

We enjoyed our trip to Brookgreen Gardens, a true jewel of the South Carolina Coast. By the way, the tickets were valid for three days.



May 19, 2014

Besh-Ba-Gowah

The town of Globe, Arizona, is the town to which Phineas Clanton, one of the surviving Clanton brothers of the gunfight with the Earps of Tombstone, retired to and died of natural causes. But, we did not visit Globe to find Phin's grave. (I have had great difficulty finding graves. See my post: Red Clay and Tombstones.)

We went visit the Besh-ba-Gowah  Archaeological Park.  In 1883 Adolph F. Bandelier did the first archaeological work there. About ten years ago we had visited Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico. Apparently, Bandelier did quite a bit of digging in the southwest.   This dwelling of ancient Americans was excavated in 1935. There had been a village there since the sixth century. The name given to the inhabitants was the Salado. The term actually means "salt", no doubt due to the nearby Salt River. Besh-ba-Gowah is actually an Apache name. Located near the Pinal Creek, which flows year round, the settlement was on a major trade route from Mexico to points north. Evidence of this was found in the ruins. The Besh-ba-Gowah  Archaeological Park is smaller that the original town, because the perimeter had been bulldozed over time for other purposes such to create a park for recreation. Today the site is well maintained with informative signage as well as some reconstruction. There is a museum, small theater, and gift shop. We watched an informative video after purchasing our tickets.  In retrospect, I think we should have visited the museum before venturing into the ruins. If I had seen the model of the  village prior to the ruins I would have better understood the significance of all that remains of Besh-Ba-Gowah.

We entered under an archway which led to a long alleyway. Had I seen the model I would have known that it was once covered.  This corridor terminated at a plaza. This plaza had over three hundred graves underneath. These early Americans, unlike most of the other indigenous people of the southwest, buried their dead. We walked among the rectangles  outlined in stone. This was a complex of about 400 rooms; of these, 250 were on the ground floor. There may have been as many as four floors. Entry was through a hatch in the roof. Ladders provided a method to reach the roof. In times of danger the ladders could be pulled up on the roof. Soon we came to the ceremonial room, according to a sign.  It was below ground level and had seating, an altar, and a ceremonial fire ring. According to the signage there was also an echo chamber.  "I wonder what the echo chamber was used for?" Claudette asked.

"I don't know.  It doesn't say on the sign.  Maybe, it was just an added sound effect for the ceremony," I answered.

"It says there was a crystal covering a hole in the altar where the spirits appeared," she added.

"You know the Indians from this area believed they came from deep within the earth," I said.

"And the first nation people of the northwest thought they came from the seashells of the sea," she said, reminding me of our visit to the University of British Columbia's Museum of Anthropology.

We continued our walk into a large stone structure. Inside the reconstruction were rooms as they would have been centuries ago. The overhead wooden beams were lashed together, since the native Americans were not experienced with metallurgy. It was fairly dark inside and much cooler. It offered a good opportunity to see the construction methods used. Back in the sunlight we continued our walk and eventually returned to the museum/gift shop. The museum had much information presented in the form of artifacts and some some reproductions. The pottery was beautifully crafted and decorated. Geometric designs and stylized animals were a common motif. Primitive tools and textiles were also on display. There were scale models of the habitat as well. As I mentioned earlier, it would have been to our advantage to have visited the museum prior to visiting the site.

I was a great day in the Arizona sunshine, and we will surely remember our visit to Besh-ba-Gowah

May 12, 2014

The Army Helmet

Dear Tony,

I was down around where we used to live the other day. Things have really growed up. But I did find the school house. We had a lot of good times there, didn't we? It brought back a lot of old memories. Do you remember Little Rupert's helmet? I think you were out with the measles when it happened. I'll tell you about it as well as I remember.


It was one of those beautiful spring days at school. We was in the fifth grade. There were only three rooms at the schoolhouse and one of those was the lunch room. In those days the boys either played baseball or army at recess. Most of our dads had been in WWII and the Korean War had just ended. Yep, soldiers were our heroes. As boys we would build forts in the wooded area near our school. Sometimes they could be real fancy. We had whittled our guns our of some old wooden boards which would have normally been use for firewood. Knives were illegal at school. So we had to smuggle them onto the school grounds.  We would use whatever our imaginations allowed to defeat the Nazis and Japs.  One day Rupert Collins found a headlight housing from an old junk car. It was shaped like a cone and Buster Johnson told him that it would make a great helmet. Buster was sort of a bully and always told everyone what to do. Rupert wasn't a very big boy and was not very popular. I guess that’s why he was always trying to please everyone. Well, he put that headlight housing on his head and looked like what we would later call a conehead. We thought it was pretty cool. The bell rang signaling the end of recess but Rupert could not get his helmet off. He wouldn't go back into the schoolhouse!


When Mrs. Tillman asked where he was Buster just snickered.  I told the teacher what had happened and led her to where Rupert was hanging out near the well pump. (We didn’t have runnin’ water in the school.) She took one disgusting look at Rupert and said to me, “How are we going to get it off?”

“I don't know, Ma'am,” I answered.

“Maybe Mr. Smith can help.  He has a shop,” she said and added, ‘Go with him.  I’m sure everything will be alright .” She looked at Rupert as she said the last.




Mr. Smith’s shop was about two hundred yards from the school house. My family always called him “Uncle Botchie”.  I don't know why, his name was Frank. He was my great aunt Mary’s husband.


“Good morning. Uncle Frank,” I said.


He was sitting at his workbench drinking a cup of coffee and reading the latest issue of Popular Mechanics magazine.  Now Uncle Botchie’s shop was really something to behold.  It was so very clean.  Daddy said you could probably eat off the floor. And his tools were all hanging on the wall in their particular places. They all looked brand new.  I knew they weren't of course.  Uncle Botchie had told me how many of them had been passed down from his daddy and his daddy’s daddy. He looked up and turned to face us as I spoke. He was now into his seventy-fifth year but still had the twinkle of a curious youth in his eye as he peered over his bifocal glasses at us.


“Who’s that you got with you?” he asked.


“This is Rupert Collins,” I announced.


“What’s that on his head? Looks like something off a ‘34 Chevrolet.”
Uncle Botchie was very observant and had spent his life as a mechanic. His own automobile, a 1940 Chevrolet coupe, was pretty as picture and looked like it had just rolled off the assembly line in Detroit, Michigan.


“We were playing army and Rupert got this thing stuck on his head,”

“I reckon you want me to get it off,” he said as he moved his considerable 230 plus pounds down from his shop stool.  He was dressed as usual in a dark gray workman’s uniform with “Frank” embroidered over the left shirt pocket. Sunday was the only day he did not wear the uniform. He always looked fresh scrubbed too with his thinning hair combed straight back. There was a slight smell of Lucky Tiger hair tonic and Old Spice after shave about him. Mama said she didn’t think he ever did any work because he was always so clean. He slowly walked around Rupert as if sizing up the job.


“H-m-m…,” he said. Then he said “Come over here to the bench.”
We followed him to the bench and he grabbed a hacksaw from it’s place on the wall behind the bench. “You hold his head while I saw,” he said to me.
I did as he ordered and he began to saw on  Rupert’s “helmet”. Rupert became upset. I don’t know why.  Unless it was because the vibration of that saw cutting through the metal made his head hurt.  He started to wiggle and tried to get out of my grip as I tried to steady him.

“You’ve got to hold him still!” Uncle Botchie said.

“I’m trying, but the little fella is kinda stout!” I said in desperation.

Rupert yelled, “I can’t stand that racket.  It makes my head hurt!” as he jerked from my grip.

In resignation, Uncle Botchie said, “That’s all I can do.” And then he added, “Maybe of Big Tom can help you.”

So off we went to Big Tom’s blacksmith’s shop. We left Uncle Botchie cleaning the hacksaw with a shop rag. Just the other side of the railroad tracks that divided the small town was Big Tom Starling’s blacksmith shop. I did not know him very well but knew that by reputation he was the strongest man around. Daddy said that he had seen him lift the rear end of a Model A Ford once. We could hear him hammering on his anvil as we went in. We felt the heat from his forge too. There were still some blacksmith work to be done in the area. He shod horses, did some iron work and repaired wagons too. Some of the prettiest cemetery fences around were made by him. He was drenched with sweat and his long hair was pulled back in a ponytail. He was the only man around with a ponytail. Grandma  said that was where his strength came from.  The long hair.  Just like Samson in the Bible. Nobody teased Big Tom about the ponytail though. You didn’t tease a man with the size and strength of Big Tom Starling.  That is if you had good sense.  I knew he heard us come in because he laid his hammer down and stretched up to his full six foot five inch height. “What  can I do for you boys?” He asked looking down at us. He was dressed in bib-overalls, no shirt and old combat boots. His hairy arms were shiny with sweat and there was a tattoo saying “Mom” on his shoulder. The bluebird tattooed on his arm seemed to flap its wings as he flexed the muscle.

“You see Rupert here got this thing stuck on his head while we were playing army and we can’t get it off.”

“Let me take a look at it,” he said moving closer. He wrapped his big hands around the “helmet” as he looked at it with squinted eyes. “Well, metal stretches when it gets hot. But I don’t think young Rupert here would like sticking his head in the forge. Nope, there’s gotta be better way. Let me think.” He cradled his chin in his big right hand and his bright blue eyes under jet black eyebrows seemed deep in thought.
“Come on to the back of the shop and let’s try somethin'.”

We followed him to the rear of the shop where there were wagon wheels and other wagon parts. He walked into the corner and after looking around for a bit came back holding a big can of something.

“Let’s try this. It won’t hurt at all.” 

Rupert had shied away a bit. Then I saw what he had.  It was axle grease. He stuck his hand in the can and pulled out a handful of that black grease. Rupert stood still while Big Tom, the blacksmith, smeared that axle grease on Rupert’s head where it touched the “helmet”.

“We should be able to slide it right off now,” Tom said. He wiped the excess grease on his dirty overalls and grabbed the “helmet” with both hands. He turned the “helmet” but  Rupert turned with it.  He tried again
and again but the “helmet” just would not come off. He sent us on our way.
In parting he said to Rupert, "Hope yo' mama don't beat me up on me for that grease on yo' head!"

“What we gonna do now?” Rupert asked as we left the blacksmith's shop.

“I don’t know. We need a magician!” I said.

“Old Mary is a fortune teller. You reckon she could he'p?” Rupert was desperate too.

“Can’t hurt,”

We walked down the crooked road toward old Mary’s house.  Actually, It wasn’t much of a house.  What Daddy called a shack. Her house was unpainted except for the corners which were a brilliant blue. Mama said that was supposed to keep the haints away. I asked Daddy why our house didn’t have blue corners but he just laughed and said that we didn’t believe in no haints. She was sitting on the front porch in a rocking chair with a black cat at her feet. There were bones and things hanging from the edge of the porch roof which kind of rattled in the warm breeze. “What y’all boys want? You’s a long way from the schoolhouse.” she asked in a gravelly voice that Mama said was caused by smoking too many cigarettes.  Her teeth were yellow from the stains of smoke through the years and the whites of her eyes were yellow too but not quite as yellow as her teeth. Her face was wrinkled like those prunes Gandma ate for breakfast.   

“Rupert’s got this thing stuck on his head and we can’t get it off.  Can you help us?” I said with a hint of desperation in my voice. Her head was bound in a big red and white bandanna with tufts of hair like steel wool peaking our. Big hoop earrings hung from her ears.  Her skin was the color of coffee with cream  and her eyes, though black as coal, were somehow mischievous looking.

“Y’all hafta come in de house,” she said getting up.  She was not very tall and very thin and a bit stoop shouldered.
We followed her inside the small house. She motioned for us to sit at the table in the middle of the room. It was cool in that room and there was no light in the room until she lit the candle.
"Put yo' han's palm down on the table," she said to Rupert. Sitting opposite him she deftly shuffled a deck of cards. “Let’s see what da cards got to say,” she said as she dealt slowly and placed them face up on the table. “H-m-m…,”she said and stopped dealing after five cards. I had never seen any playing cards like the ones she had. We didn’t have any cards in our house.  Baptists don’t play cards but I had seen some before when Larry Steifle had brought a deck to school. They had little diamonds and shovels and hearts and clovers on them but these  had funny pictures on them. After studying the cards a while and mumbling under her breath she looked straight into Rupert’s eyes and said, “The solution to your pro'lem is right under yo' nose.  Dat hat gonna come off soon.  Now who’s gonna pay me?”
It was not a surprise.  I had heard that old Mary always charged for her services. I dug down into my blue jeans pocket and found two pennies, a Mary Jane and some lint. My Hopalong Cassidy pocketknife was in my other pocket. I gave her the pennies and kept the lint and Mary Jane.

“I don’t know what to do next,” I mused.

“I’m hungry!” Rupert said.

“Me too. Let’s go back to the schoolhouse and get something to eat.,” I said. And so we walked back to the schoolhouse.

Mrs. Tillman met us at the door.  “You didn't get it off,” she said and added, “Rupert,  what is that substance on your head?

“It’s just axle grease Big Tom put on his head to try to get the helmet off.  It didn't come off though but we'll try again after we get something to eat.”


“I know you missed lunch. But maybe Mrs. Scott has something for you. Go see her,” she said.

We went to the lunch room and sure enough Mrs. Scott gave us big bowls of navy beans and huge slices of cornbread.  We sat down to eat. Rupert asked for the pepper.  Rupert always liked a lot of pepper. Somebody, probably Buster, had loosened the cap on the pepper shaker so it poured out on to Ruperts beans.  All that pepper caused him to sneeze so hard that his “helmet” came right off and hit the floor with a bang.  

Old Mary had been right!  The solution had been right under his nose.

That's all for now,

Your ole buddy,
Bubba

May 7, 2014

A Garden in the Valley of the Sun.


60 minutes from downtown Phoenix in the Sonoran Desert is the Desert Botanical Garden. Here is a display of several thousand plants native to the local desert. Located on 145 acres are over fifty thousand plants.There is plenty of parking and  easy access to the entrance.

A must have before beginning your discovery of the Garden is a map. Inside the visitors guide is a color coded trail map. Each trail is described and the distance given. This is great if your time is valuable. Another great feature is the location of the restrooms. Chances are you will have to go as soon as you get there! I know we did. I had forgotten my hat and the desert sun is less than good for me, so I immediately visited the gift shop.  It was well stocked not only with souvenir merchandise but a good selection of headgear as well. I was able to purchase a hat without feeling I was a victim of larceny.   

Since family members with us had visited before they were able to guide us in the best use of our time. After all, the Garden does cover a lot of ground.  The trails are well maintained with barriers to keep onlookers at their distance, but most of the plants are cacti and have their own means of protection...spines. Each plant has a small sign giving common and scientific name plus other information. However, sometimes it is difficult to determine which plant is being identified. The shapes of the cactus plants are quite varied. The most commonly recognized is the saguaro.  I've seen many in western movies. They're tall with seemingly outstretched arms. The short and rather stubby barrel cactus is also easily recognized. Some appear to have fat leaves like the prickly pear, and some whose name I do not know look like a fat vine with spines, while some are tree like.  

Cacti have the unique ability to survive in a land that has only ten inches or less of rain a year.  Although all cacti are succulents not all succulents are cacti. Cacti roots are close to
the top of the ground in order to absorb the water from the rain.  The plant is  almost a complete water storage container. The ribs of the plants such as the barrel cactus and saguaro  allow the plant to expand to hold more water. At full capacity a cactus may be 90% water. Most cacti have spines.  Although we normally think of these as mainly for protection they actually perform a duty in water conservation. Most cacti have no leaves; what we  see is a stem. Some of the most beautiful flowers in the desert are cactus flowers. 

One of the visual delights of the Desert  Botanical Garden is the Marshall Butterfly
Pavillion. As nature's animated eye candy, they navigate the desert air. They move on gossamer wings from plant to plant, although their flying is erratic. There is even a butterfly feeding station. I am curious if the color of the feeder attracts them, or are they attracted  by some other means?

Wildlife is rare in the garden as one would expect with so many humans around.  But, If you look carefully, you can see animals and birds. I spied a lizard, and Pat got some great hummingbird photos with his new DSLR camera. I,on the other hand, was using my cell phone camera and missed a great shot of a roadrunner.  Perhaps, Wiley Coyote was chasing him.

Special exhibits are noted in the visitors guide. The Garden is currently hosting a Dale Chihuly exhibition.  Chihuly is a famous American glass sculptor. The colors of his glass sculptures vary from brilliant green to fiery orange. The plants have a more somber palette of color; pale greens, grays and pale purples. Chihuly's unnatural color is juxtaposed with this natural color. Does the glass sculpture enhance the beauty of the desert?  I think not.

The Desert Botanical Garden is interesting and informative whether the visitor is a serious botanist or a casual nature lover. There is something for everyone in the desert near Phoenix. The Desert Botanical Garden.