May 10, 2013

Art Deco and Cuba Libres

There is a part of Miami Beach that hasn't changed it's appearance since before the 1950's. The architecture here is known as Art Deco.  I had a little familiarity with it having been a big fan of Miami Vice, the television show of the 1980's.  The buildings have unique shapes, many curves and metal integrated into the designs. Supposedly the style comes from Egyptian tombs via Paris. Regardless of its origin the structures are pleasing to the eye particularly in the pastel colors.  The sun was extremely bright as we began our walk sevenish in the morning. There weren't many people out, just the usual joggers, dog walkers and  deliverymen. From our hotel on Washington we walked a few blocks to the beach. The brilliant morning sun was a blinding glare off the sea as I'm sure it was when this was a mangrove swamp. We watched a man towel off his dog.  I think he had bathed him with water from a faucet nearby.  The were some grizzled old men sunning themselves on the benches in the waterfront park.  The pigeons were out in force. With the beach behind us we walked inland and lingered to soak in the ambiance of the area. Many of the buildings appeared quite sculptural to me. On the way back to the hotel we saw the staff at the restaurant Havana 1957 placing silverware on the sidewalk tables in front of the eatery.

The previous afternoon we had eaten dinner there at the suggestion of the hotel operations manager.  In the late afternoon and early evening the Art Deco area of South Beach is alive with energy.  It moves to the rhythm of another country. Memories of Ry Cooder's Buena Vista Social Club and the music thereof drift through my mind. Cooder had ventured to Havanna in 1996 and recorded the music of some of the elderly statesmen of Cuban music. The music of the island of Cuba is everywhere as is the staccato sound of Spanish. But it seems so natural and at home here. The hostess was an attractive young woman with black curls cascading over her bare back.  She directed us to a street side table and our waiter soon joined us.  The young man was quite friendly and a born salesman.  I saw Cuba Libre on the drink menu and had to get reacquainted with something I had found in Brazil many years before. He attempted to upgrade my drink with a more expensive rum but I stuck with the house brand.  Claudette on the other hand was feeling chatty in Spanish and tried a few words before resorting to English.  She discovered the our waiter's name was Juan Carlos.  And that he was not related to the king of Spain by the same name. She had requested a glass of merlot but due to Juan's salesmanship ordered a mojito.  Early in our trip Claudette had wanted to stop by her favorite Cuban restaurant in St. Augustine for ropa vieja but I had reneged. But now she had another opportunity and did not hesitate to order her favorite Cuban dish.  I on the other hand was convinced  by our waiter that the churrasco a la cubana was the dish for me.  Juan Carlos was correct. The flank steak was marinated, grilled, topped with grilled onions and served  with black beans and rice.  It was indeed delicious. Our meal was enjoyable and we enjoyed constant flow of interesting people through our dining area. I do wish the guy on the bike had walked it through.  I would have felt a bit safer. We topped off the meal with flan. It was the creme de la creme of a finish to a great meal. The dining experience will remain one of my most memorable.

Slowly we wandered back to our  hotel.  It was early to bed due to an early start tomorrow.


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